Afterwords

It was a great trip, but it is good to get home.  As I've said before, two nice things about traveling:  It's good to get away and it's good to get back.

A few final thoughts, first about the trip itself:

• People-to-People does a great job.  The hotel, food and program are all outstanding.  While it's not cheap, you get what you pay for and with People-to-People, you get your money's worth.
• Who you travel with is more important than where you go and what you see - bad companions can make any trip miserable and good ones can make a trip wonderful.  Once again, we are in the latter category.  All members of our delegations either were already friends or are now friends.  Great people - they made being a leader easy.
• As Yogi Berra once (supposedly) said: "You can hear a lot by listening."  To which I would add, you can learn a lot by being there.  While one week does not make any of us experts about Cuba, we learned an amazing amount about the country, its people and its culture.  I even picked up a bit of Spanish!

About Cuba:

• While I can't speak for the whole delegation or People-to-People, why in the world are we boycotting the country?  (Cubans use the term "blockade" which is incorrect, but shows their thinking).  I mean, even if Fidel is evil and should be deposed, this policy has not worked for over fifty years.  What's the saying about the definition of insanity?
• Every meeting had at least one Cuban official sitting in, but not speaking.  Not one speaker was in the least critical of their government, their laws or any policies.  Think these might be related?
• The issue of the Cuban Five is incredibly hot there, but not one person in the delegation had heard of it prior to our trip.  We will have to deal with it if relations are to improve.  By just by reading the wikipedia article on it, it is, as we suspected, not as simple as the American government railroading innocent people to jail due to the financial resources of the American Cuban community.  I suggest that anyone interested in American-Cuban relations familiarize himself or herself with this issue.
• When relations improve (and they will) this island will be overrun with tourists.  I'm glad we got their first.  For one thing, it's nice to get there before McDonald's and Starbuck open all over the place.  Second, those old cars are fun to see and might disappear.
• The country desperately needs better infrastructure.  Internet was expensive and unreliable.  There were few cell phones seen.  Our guide told us that the train system was terrible and the road east of Havana were terrible. 
• The Cuban people are warm and friendly.  The CDR party was a highlight of the trip and the hugs at the end were genuine.
• What a great trip!

Last full day in Cuba

This morning, we met with Senor Osmani Castro Cruz, Specialist for the “International Relations and Cooperation Department Provincial Assembly of People’s Power,” who described for us the levels of government in Cuba and welcomed our questions.  Again, there was a counterpart with him whose main purpose seemed to be to ensure that he said nothing critical of the Cuban government.  Senor Castro’s emphasis, again, was on the power of the people, despite having only one political power.  As with prior speakers, he was critical of the American “blockade” and made a reference to the Cuban 5.

On the way to lunch, we made a quick stop at a Cuban synagogue.  There are approximately 1,800 Jews in Cuba and three synagogues.




After lunch, we went to Jaimanitas, a small coaster neighborhood west of Havana, where Jose Fuster lives,   Senor Fuster has turned his neighborhood into a art gallery with his murals on walls everywhere.  His house is amazing - sort of a mix of Disneyworld and Willie Wonka.







We will have our farewell dinner tonight and leave Cuba tomorrow morning.


                               

Thursday

This morning, we met with three lawyers from the Sociedad Cubana de Derecho International, Organization Nacional de Bufetes Colectivos and Union Nacional de Juristas de Cuba.  While you can do your own translations, essentially, this was the Cuban Bar Association.

Among other things, we learned that 67% of Cuban lawyers are women.  As in the states, there are various levels of trial courts, leading to a Supreme Court.  While most judges are lawyers, some courts have lay people serving on them as well.  There are no jury trials, so the lay judges bring some non-legal opinions into play.  Judges are appointed, subject to renewal, for set terms.  There is no common law in Cuba, although court decisions can be cites for their persuasive value. 

There is a disciplinary system for any lawyer who violates the code of ethics.  Similar to our system, a lawyer accused of misconduct is entitled to due process.  If a violation is found, the lawyer can be reprimanded, suspended or disbarred.

This morning’s  meeting was the first time we had an actual interchange with our hosts.  Our previous meetings were mostly be lectured to by law professors.  While interesting, the interchange this morning was more dynamic.

After lunch, we met with relatives of the “Cuban 5 Heroes,” four of whom remain in American jails..  We made clear to them that we were not representatives of the U.S. government and could not even speak on behalf of People-to-People.  But, we could listen to their stories about their relatives, read the material which they supplied and go back home and learn more about the situation.  We assured them that human beings, we felt their loss and that as lawyers, we were committed to the principal of justice to all.   Therefore, we thanked them for meeting with us and promised to learn more about their relatives’ situation.

Tonight, we went to a neighborhood block party which has been rescheduled from several days ago.
We thought that the highlight of this trip would be the Buena Vista Social Club on Sunday night, but last night will be one we will never forget.

A block party by the “Cubans for the Defense of the Revolution” sounds rather communistic, but it turned out to be an opportunity to meet Cubans and have fun with them.  After the usual welcoming speeches ( I was tempted to challenge the length of one of Fidel’s 6+ hour orations, but  kept it a bit shorter), there was a rounding Spanish version of “Happy Birthday” for Charlotte (and later a cake for both Charlotte and Aly). 

Then, lots of Cuban music, dancing, rum and food.  Language difference seems insignificant and when we finally had to leave, we traded email address, hugs and kisses. 

Wednesday

We left Havana this morning and took a two hour bus trip east to Puerta de Golpe where we visited “El Patio de Pelegrin,” which is a little village which serves as an art and cultural center for children, with music, dancing, handicrafts and more.  We also visited their farm.






Next, we had lunch in Las Terrazas, a terrific restaurant hidden in the hills of eastern Cuba.

Afterwards, we visited a new eco-friently hotel being built in the hills and an artist’s studio, who recycles paper and makes them into printed note cards.

Tuesday

Today started with a a speaker from the U.S. Department of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Cuba which carries out Cuban foreign policy relating to the U.S.  The speakers made clear their frustration with the policies of the American government, especially, of course, what is called the “blockade.”  At the same time, they expressed friendship for the people of the United States and the wish for better relations, which we reciprocated.

Hammel Alley in central Havana where we met the Cuban painter and muralist Salvador Gonzalez and were treated to a folk dance and music performance.

After lunch, we returned to the law union building and heard from Professor Kindelan regarding the Cuban constitution and Cuban laws.

Regretttably, due to the difficulties with the internet here (expensive and very, very slow) I won't be able to post pictures today - I'll try again tomorrow.

Sunday night and Monday

Is it possible that the high point of the trip could occur on the second night?  It will be difficult to top the performance we saw at the Buena Vista Social Club.  The music was terrific, but it was the infectious enthusiasm of the performers which was most memorable.   It even got most of us to join in the dancing - some better than others (like me!).

This morning we we to the Convento de Nuestra Senora de Belen, a senior citizen center housed in a restored 18th century convent.  After a warm welcome which included a serenade by the seniors, we toured the facility and learned of their programs which include occupational and physical therapy,

Next, we went to Cuban Institute of Friendship with People where we received an orientation about Cuba, including the issues between our governments.  The speaker referred continually to the U.S. “blockade” (it’s a embargo, which is bad enough, not a blockade) and the Cuban 5 Heroes, who are four Cubans (one has been released) held in American jails.  While we will hear more about this later in the trip, it is obviously a very hot issue here as yellow ribbons were well in view both at the Institute and at our next stop.

After lunch, we went to the National Union of Jurists, which is the Cuban Bar Association.  Professor Alejandro Vigil Iduate gave us an overview of the Cuban legal system, of which he seemed to be quite fond.  Again the Cuban 5 was a strong element of disagreement with the American legal system.

We left in a major downpour, so perhaps it was fortuitous that our block party which was scheduled for tonight will be rescheduled.  Besides, after a late night last night, an early evening will be welcome.

First full day in Cuba

Last night, we had dinner at Paladar La Guarida, which was the site of the only Cuban film to be nominated for a best foreign language Academy Award.  It was a great dinner, although being filmed by a German television program was a little weird.

We took the opportunity for a group picture which is above.

This morning, we visited Regla, which is a district of Havana  The first photo above is Havana, with the capital in the middle, from Regla.

We started at the Church of Nuestra Senora de Regla, which iis the second picture above, then walked to the Municipal Museum of Regia. 

After lunch, we went to the Centro Cultural Antiguos Almacenes where over 300 booths sell art, handicrafts and the usual tourist fare. 

So far, our contact with Cubans has been somewhat limited to those trying to sell us souvenirs.  The conversations we have had, however, indicate a great deal of friendliness to Americans and a wish that the boycott could end so tourism would be open and frequent. 

Tonight, we will have dinner at El Guajirito Paladar, followed by a performance by musicians from the Buena Vista Social Club.